Structure and anatomy of a hand-forged axe

Introduction

The axe is one of humanity's oldest and most important tools and remains indispensable for craftsmen and tool enthusiasts to this day. A high-quality hand-forged axe impresses with its durability, sharpness, and balance. Typically, an axe consists of a forged steel head with a sharp edge and a robust handle, firmly connected by the axe eye. Hand-forged axes are crafted with great care in a traditional manner, which clearly distinguishes them from mass-produced items.

In this article, we explain the structure (anatomy) of a hand-forged axe in a clear yet technically precise manner. We'll cover the main components, materials used, different blade shapes, and various cutting edges. Finally, we'll provide you with practical care tips to ensure your axe remains reliable for a lifetime.

The structure of an axe

An axe essentially consists of two components: the axe head (the metal part) and the axe handle (the handle). The axe head, in turn, is divided into several sections with specific functions. Below is an overview of the main components of an axe and their significance:

• Axe head: The entire metal head of the axe. It includes the cutting edge (blade) and other parts such as the eye and the tang. The axe head is typically forged from steel and forms the axe's actual working tool.
• Cutting edge (blade): The sharpened front edge of the axe head used to cut or split material. It can be straight or slightly curved, depending on the axe type. A sharp, cleanly ground cutting edge ensures efficient penetration into the wood. The cutting edge is often called the axe blade and is the most important functional part of the head.
• Beard : The beard is the lower, downward-extending part of the cutting edge or axe blade that protrudes below the eye. Not every axe has a pronounced beard. The beard enlarges the cutting surface and allows, for example, the leading hand to be placed closer to the head for more control during delicate work.
• Eye: The eye is the opening through the axe head into which the handle is attached. This hole accommodates the upper end of the handle and is often called the eye. A generously sized or slightly flared eye increases the contact area between the head and handle, ensuring the handle sits firmly and securely in the head. The eye secures the handle with wedges to prevent the head from coming loose when swinging.
• Cheek: The cheek (also called the axe blade in the narrower sense) refers to the wide side surfaces of the axe head to the left and right of the cutting edge. These give the axe head its thickness and wedge shape. The shape of the cheek influences the splitting behavior: Wider, wedge-shaped cheeks push the wood apart during splitting, while thinner cheeks can penetrate deeper into the material.
• Neck: The back of the axe head, opposite the cutting edge, is called the neck (also called the fin). The neck is often flat or slightly curved and can be used for occasional hammering, such as driving wedges into firewood. On special axes (e.g., splitting mauls or hunter's hatchets), the neck is specifically hardened or polished to serve as a hammering surface, whereas on other axe types, it may be pointed.
• Handle (shaft): The handle is the axe's grip and connects the user to the tool. Classic axe handles are made of wood and are usually oval in cross-section, which allows for good and comfortable handling. The handle is inserted through the eye of the head and wedged there. A high-quality handle dampens vibrations and fits ergonomically in the hand. We'll discuss the materials and shape of the handle in more detail below.
• Handle shoulder: This is the name given to the thickened portion at the top of the handle below the axe head. The shoulder fills the axe eye and prevents the head from slipping downward during a swing. A pronounced handle shoulder ensures a firm fit for the head and prevents the axe head from twisting on the handle under force.
• Handle knob : The lower end of the handle is often thickened or slightly curved. This thickening is called the knob. The knob improves the grip and serves as a stop to prevent the axe from slipping out of the hand during powerful swings. The knob is particularly important for a secure hold on one-handed axes. Some modern axe handles also have a lanyard hole on the knob for hanging the axe, but a wrist strap should not be attached for safety reasons.

Materials and manufacturing

High-quality axes are distinguished not only by their shape, but also by their first-class materials and extremely precise craftsmanship. They are usually crafted in traditional forges, where experienced blacksmiths oversee every step of the process. In this section, we'll examine the materials used for the axe head and handle, as well as the advantages of hand-forging.

Axe head: steel and forging process

The axe head of a quality axe is usually made of high-quality steel, usually carbon steel (tool steel). When properly heat-treated, this steel offers a good compromise between hardness and toughness. This is important so that the edge stays sharp without becoming too brittle under heavy use. Modern axe heads are often forged from a single piece of steel and then hardened along the edge. Some traditional axes also have a very hard steel edge forged onto a tougher steel body (sandwich or laminate construction) to achieve the best of both material properties.

The production of a high-quality hand-forged axe typically involves several steps: First, a piece of steel is heated to a high temperature until it glows. The glowing material is then shaped under heavy hammers or presses – the axe blade is forged, the eye is formed, and the beard (if included) is machined. This traditional forging technique compacts the steel and aligns the internal grain structure along the shape of the axe, which benefits its durability. The massive pressure of the hammers creates robust axe heads of various sizes and shapes.

A major advantage of hand-forged axes is the superior quality control and material quality. Each head undergoes the forging process individually, reducing stresses in the material and avoiding defects (such as blowholes or cracks). Accordingly, the quality of the axes is significantly superior to that of cheap mass-produced goods. While industrially manufactured axe heads are also made of steel, they often lack the same toughness and fine structure as traditionally forged heads. In addition, handcrafting allows for more precise control of hardness – critical areas like the cutting edge are hardened and tempered to just the right level, while the neck, for example, can remain slightly softer to absorb impact stress. All of this means that, with proper care, a hand-forged axe can last a lifetime.

Axe handle: wood types and properties

The handle of an axe is just as important as the head. Wood has always been the classic material for axe handles because it is both stable and vibration-damping. However, not every type of wood is equally suitable. Ash and especially hickory (a member of the American walnut family) have proven particularly successful due to their excellent properties. Hickory is extremely tough, elastic, and has long, straight fibers, making it ideal for high-stress handles. These elastic fibers allow a hickory handle to withstand enormous stress and rarely break completely, even in the event of a mishit or exposure to cold.

We've already written another article about hickory wood . You can also find it here in our blog.

Although hickory handles are often slightly more expensive than ash handles, they are considered a premium choice for quality axes and are used exclusively by manufacturers such as Gränsfors Bruk . Modern alternatives to wooden handles are plastic or fiberglass handles. These are resistant to moisture, do not warp, and require less maintenance.

They also absorb shocks well and can even survive a misfire without breaking. However, traditional blacksmiths typically use wooden handles for hand-forged axes, as they offer a classic look and feel and are easier to replace if damaged. A well-made wooden handle has a straight grain (parallel to the lengthwise direction), which ensures maximum stability and minimizes splintering.

Blade shapes and cutting types

Depending on their intended use, axes come in a variety of shapes and designs. Not all axes are created equal – the profile and geometry of the axe head largely determine what the tool is best suited for. In this section, we provide an overview of common axe head and cutting edge shapes, along with their typical uses. This helps both beginners and professionals find the right axe for their needs.

• Splitting axe / splitting maul: Splitting axes are specifically designed for splitting wood (e.g., firewood). They have a heavy head with a wide wedge angle and a relatively straight, robustly ground cutting edge. The cheeks of splitting axes are often wedge-shaped and thick to effectively force the wood apart. The head is heavy (a splitting maul can weigh up to 3-4 kg), and the neck is often designed as a hammer surface for driving in splitting wedges. With a splitting axe, you can split thick logs with comparatively few swings – the force and wedge effect are the key here. The cutting edge is somewhat blunter (approximately 30° cutting angle), which increases its service life and reduces jamming in the wood.
• Felling axe / forestry axe: Felling axes are used for felling trees and limbing logs. They are usually slimmer than splitting axes: The head is flatter, and the cutting edge is significantly sharper and thinner, often slightly curved to cut well into wood that is cut across the grain. Felling axes have a long handle (often 70–90 cm) for maximum leverage and momentum. This allows for deep, powerful blows into the tree trunk. A sharp, slightly thinner cutting edge ensures rapid progress when felling. Felling axe heads typically weigh between 1.5 and 2 kg – heavy enough for effective strikes, but not so bulky that the axe becomes unwieldy. This balance allows for precise handling. Forestry axes are a variant of the felling axe, often somewhat smaller, ideal for limbing and working in the forest (e.g., the small forestry axe for hunters and foresters).
• Hand axe / hatchet: A hatchet is essentially a small axe for one-handed use. Hatchets have a shorter handle (around 30–50 cm) and a lighter head (500 g to 1 kg). They are suitable for one-handed tasks such as chopping kindling, limbing small branches, or rough carpentry. The blade shape is usually similar to that of a felling axe—relatively thin and sharp—but smaller. Their compact size makes hand axes very handy and ideal for use on the go (camping, bushcraft). Most hatchets are versatile: they can split small pieces of wood, carve, or cut precisely. However, they are no substitute for a full-fledged splitting axe when dealing with large quantities of wood, as the leverage of the short handle is limited.

For beginners, it's important to know what the axe will be used for in order to choose the right shape. Professionals often have several axes in their collection, each optimized for a specific purpose. A hand-forged axe from a specialist is often available with different head shapes (felling axe, splitting axe, hatchet, etc.), so you can get exactly the right tool for the job.

Care and maintenance

A high-quality, hand-forged axe can last for generations – provided it's properly cared for. Care and maintenance are crucial to maintaining the sharp edge, preventing rust, and keeping the handle in good condition. Regular maintenance is worthwhile, especially because such an axe often also has sentimental value for its owner. Below are practical tips for proper axe care:

• Cleaning after use: The axe should be thoroughly cleaned after each use. Resin, soil, or plant sap on the cutting edge can lead to corrosion, so clean the head with a cloth or brush. Slightly dried resin can be removed with a little cooking oil, for example. Important: Dry the axe afterward, as moisture can lead to rust.
• Oil the blade and protect it from rust: A thin film of oil on the cutting edge and the axe head acts as a rust-protecting wax. Use a light machine oil, Ballistol, or even just some gun oil/care oil to rub into the metal surface. This is especially important if the axe will be stored for a long time. For axes with an unpainted forged finish (which often have a dark layer of scale), oil also protects against rust. Alternatively, you can also use a little wax paste. Check the head occasionally: If rust does form, you can carefully remove it with fine steel wool or sanding fleece and then oil it again.
• Handle care: The wooden handle also requires attention. Check regularly during use to ensure the handle is firmly seated in the axe head. A slight wobble is a warning sign – if this happens, stop working; re-wedge or replace the handle. A loose head can dangerously pop off during a swing. You can keep the wooden handle supple by occasionally rubbing it with linseed oil or a wood care oil. The oil penetrates the wood, prevents it from drying out, and prevents cracks. An oiled handle also feels pleasant and provides a good, secure grip. If the handle becomes rough or splintered, you can lightly sand it (e.g., with fine sandpaper) and oil it again. Also pay attention to the knob and shoulder: small cracks or splinters can occur here, as these areas are subject to high levels of stress. When in doubt, changing the handle is better than having an accident – ​​replacement handles are inexpensive and with a little skill you can re-handle an axe yourself.
• Storage and transport: Store your axe in a dry, temperate place. Humidity promotes rust and can cause wood to swell, while extreme dryness (e.g., next to a heater) causes wood to shrink and loosens the joints. Ideal storage is in a shed or cellar with a moderate climate. The axes in our range are all equipped with a leather blade protector. This prevents injuries or damage and also keeps dirt away from the cutting edge. An axe should never be left lying around unprotected – even accidental contact with the sharp edge can injure tools or people. When transporting it in a vehicle or backpack, secure it as best as possible so that the axe head does not slip around. Many axes have a hole in the pommel or at the end of the blade for hanging on the wall – use this for safe storage instead of, for example, sticking the axe in the ground (this would dull the edge and cause rust).
• Regular inspection: Examine your axe carefully at regular intervals. Small problems can be addressed early on: Is the head still firmly in place? Is the edge sharp and smooth? Are there any hairline cracks or dents on the handle? This maintenance ensures that the axe is always ready for use and won't let you down during work. A well-maintained axe not only works more effectively (requiring less force), but is also safer. And the risk of something breaking or slipping is minimized.
• For maintenance, we recommend the axe care kit from Gränsfors Bruk . You can also find it here in our shop.

Conclusion

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For craftsmen and tool enthusiasts who value quality, investing in a hand-forged axe is worthwhile. Such a tool not only offers better performance than inexpensive hardware store items, but with proper care, it can often last a lifetime. In our shop, you can discover a curated selection of axes and hatchets for a wide variety of purposes.